
Here are some stills from a video tour that was filmed a few days ago at the Normal store of the Naturally Yours Grocery enterprise.
Naturally Yours Grocery
1503 E. College Avenue
Normal, IL
(309) 452-3456













































Manures and composts, especially those produced on-farm or available locally at low cost, are ideal resources for cycling nutrients on-farm. From the standpoint of overall soil and crop health, composts or aged manures are preferred.
Compost has a unique advantage in comparison to un-aged manure and other organic soil amendments in that it has a (usually) predictable, and nearly ideal, ratio of carbon to nitrogen. (Parnes, 1990)
Compost can be safely applied at rates of 10 tons per acre (Parnes, 1990), where quantities are available. Much higher rates are not unusual, especially where soil is being improved rather than maintained.
Compost has some particular advantages in row crop production, especially when used in conjunction with cover crops and green manures. In sandy soils, compost's stable organic matter is especially effective at absorbing and retaining water.
Fresh plant material incorporated as green manure, on the other hand, retains its waxy leaf coating and cannot perform the same function until thoroughly digested by microbes.
There are several conventional fertilizers that should be avoided in sustainable farming because of their harmful effects on soil organisms and structure. These include anhydrous ammonia and potassium chloride.
The use of dolomite—a liming material having a high magnesium-to-calcium ratio—has also been generally discouraged, but most problems result from the frequent misuse of dolomite for raising pH on soils already high in magnesium, not from any innate detrimental qualities. It is certainly appropriate for use on fields deficient in magnesium as indicated by a proper soil test.
Some of the more "environmentally friendly" chemical fertilizers such as mono-ammonium phosphate (12-50-0), commonly called MAP, may also have a role in the transition away from the harsher chemical fertilizers.
A very serviceable and affordable 4-16-16 transitional fertilizer with magnesium, sulfur, and other minor nutrients can be prepared from a combination of two-thirds sulfate of potash-magnesia and one-third mono-ammonium phosphate. When used in combination with composts and/or legume plow-downs (for nitrogen), this 4-16-16 can be banded at seeding or otherwise applied just like the regular 5-20-20, but with reduced negative impact on soil life.
Significant additions of lime, rock phosphate, and other fertilizers should be guided by soil testing to avoid soil imbalances and unnecessary expenditure on inputs.
Cooperative Extension programs offer low-cost soil testing services in many states.
Also refer to ATTRA's Alternative Soil Testing Laboratories publication.
-- National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service "Compost".
Make Your Own
Organic Compost Pile:
Soil is where organic gardening and farming begins. What is going on underground is vital to what occurs above ground.
Your fertilizer should be what was once alive and thus contains the substances and synergists to make the new life arise from the past. By recycling living tissue, you're doing the environment and future generations a big favor. You withdraw your support and funding from artificial growth stimulants and focus on Earth's natural pre-existent plan.
The best thing you can do for your garden, along with weeding and solar receptivity, is to add organic matter to the soil. It's the same principle as how leaves add nutrients to the earth it biodegrades into: the natural fertilization system is far better to imitate than technological aberrations.
By adding decomposed organic material into your soil, you'll enhance your garden's grow-power. It will improve the overall molecular structure, increasing a sandy soil garden's water holding capacity, and aerating a clay-rich garden. The rich treasure of nutritive value in organic compost also can help your plants be stronger, displaying a hardy rise to maturity, with better resistance to disease and insect predators.
Here's some more good news for busy people: organic compost is easy to make, easy to use, and contains a tremendous storehouse of flavor-boosting minerals and disease-resisting nutrients.
Let's consider how much work is really involved, equipment required, and when compost is ready.
Composting can be as much or as little work as you want to make it. The more effort you put into it, the faster you will have finished compost.
The only required equipment is a shovel or pitchfork to turn or move the contents of the compost pile. Your pile can be built anywhere, except up against a structure such as a shed or a solid fence. There will be bugs and worms helping you compost and you want them in the pile, not in the shed or the house. Two feet is a safe distance from any structure. A bin is unnecessary. You can just build your pile on the ground.
We need a variety of plant material to start off with. Grass clippings and kitchen scraps provide nitrogen while leaves and dried straw provide carbon. You simply throw in organic materials as they become available. To speed things up, we suggest you turn the pile every other week.
The finished compost pile will have shrunk. It only takes up about a quarter of the space of the original pile. When the individual materials can no longer be identified and the pile looks like dark, rich soil, the compost is complete. It will smell sweet, woodsy, and earthy. It will crumble through your fingers. If it smells bad, it is either too wet or not getting enough oxygen.
Keep a large iron coffee can or small tin bucket under your kitchen sink for kitchen scraps. This will be your secret little Compost Pail. Keep the children and pets out of it. Avoid letting others see you toss stuff into it. Don't even let your neighbors know you do it. LOL Relax -- it can sit a few days before any odor starts to waft into the kitchen. Be sure to ONLY throw organic material into this special Compost Pail.
Coffee grounds have a pleasant smell that hides most other odors - keep them in the (unbleached, non-chemicalized) paper filter, it will break down too!
If your home gets really hot in the summer, and you don't keep the air conditioning on much, throw the contents of the clandestine Compost Pail out into the Compost Pile at least once a day, depending on the type and amount of waste that accumulates.
Things to avoid:
About the Methodist Wellmobile
The Methodist Wellmobile is a massive consumer education program designed to promote healthier living among central Illinois residents.
Our free or low cost screenings, are conducted by caring and trained Methodist Medical Center staff who travel throughout central Illinois educating members of the community on issues including healthy living, early detection of disease, as well as, disease prevention and treatment.
It is our hope that patients and physicians use our services to monitor the improvement of results during dietary, lifestyle or medication changes.


